I am so sorry about your Uncle. It sounds like his funeral was a fitting tribute. I just hope he always ate all the food on his plate, so he can enjoy the hereafter as the satiated specter and not the hungry ghost.
I was always a bit confused when my mother used to tell my brothers and me that we had to finish our dinners because there are starving children in Africa. Now that I know about the hungry ghost, it makes a lot more sense. Your spring onion pancakes sound very tasty. I used to order something similar to that at "Congee Village," the Chinese restaurant I used to frequent when I lived in NYC. It did not have sprouts in it though.
I spent last weekend braving the hordes at all the big touristy spots in New York. We saw Santa at Macy's, the big tree at Rockefeller Center, two homeless guys getting stoned in Central Park, etc. Now I must prepare for the onslaught of family on Friday. So I am going to cheat a little and instead of writing a proper entry, I am going to post a story I wrote several years ago. It is the story of Bernice the Christmas pig.
Before I get to Bernice, I need to add a postscript to my previous entries. My mother read them and she has compelled me to make the following corrections:
1) When my Grandmother was born in Algeria it was a "department" of France, not a "colony." However, I am not sure that everyone who lived there at the time appreciated that distinction.
2) My Grandmother never made pie in Algeria or Cuba. She only started making pie when they all moved to Miami. My point about the tropical climate still stands, though.
3) The time my mother started to cook the Thanksgiving turkey with the bag of innards still inside, we did not have to trash the whole turkey. The turkey's parts were contained in a paper bag, not a plastic bag. The bag was removed and the turkey finished cooking uneventfully.
And finally, to add my own postscript, date bars do not freeze well. I defrosted them last weekend to distribute with other goodies as little Christmas gifts. They still tasted good, but the consistency was all wrong. They were a big gooey mess. I quickly whipped up another batch and we ate the gooey ones ourselves.
Now, on to Bernice. I originally wrote this essay as a submission for the "It Happened to Me" article in Jane magazine. It was rejected, but I am glad I wrote it. Rereading it today for the first time in years, it is nice to have all the details.
IT HAPPENED TO ME
Bernice had a lovely personality, but she tasted even better.
I don’t even like meat. My yearly meat consumption is probably equal to what most Americans eat in a week. But around Christmas time, all of that changes. My Cuban mother prepares a traditional dinner for Nochebuena, the Cuban Christmas Eve celebration. The feast’s highlight is my mother’s roast pork – it’s like butter! The aroma seeps from the oven for hours. When the roast finally comes out, each member of the family sneaks to the kitchen to snitch meat and crispy skin before dinner. For an instant I become a raging carnivore.
Last Christmas, my husband Matt and I were serving as Peace Corps volunteers in Cameroon. Surrounded by banana trees in equatorial heat, it never begins to look a lot like Christmas. And when Bing Crosby dreams of a white Christmas, it sounds more melancholic than ever. To alleviate our homesickness, Matt and I decided to host a Christmas Eve party with other volunteers and made plans to recreate the Nochebuena of my childhood.
Without refrigeration the only fresh meat is alive, so we headed to the market to buy a pig. The Cameroonian ladies in the market helped us pick out a beautiful medium-sized female. We named her Bernice.
We held the party at our friend Craig’s house in Campo, a tropical paradise in southern Cameroon. Traveling to Campo with Bernice was less than idyllic. The poor thing was tied on top of one bush taxi after another as we made our way south. We reached Campo around midnight and struggled to carry her up a steep hill to Craig’s house. Bernice was unhappy and heavy. In frustration we hoisted her on top of our rolling suitcase, but she promptly wriggled off. We arrived at Craig’s exhausted and slept soundly that night.
The following day was Bernice’s last and we treated her well. Some carefully arranged banana leaves provided her with shade while she feasted on our leftover beans and rice. Craig’s Cameroonian neighbor advised: “It is easy to kill a pig, just drink lots of wine first.” I called my cousin in Miami, who had roasted a pig in his backyard a few years earlier. He offered some better suggestions, but warned: “You’re going to be covered in blood. People are going to lose teeth.”
We needed a plan. We found a helpful book called Swine Science which recommended “rendering the pig insensible” to make the killing more humane. Our idea was to hit Bernice on the head with the blunt end of an ax. For the killing, our tools were limited – two dull knives and a dull machete. For the roasting, we dug a huge coffin-sized hole, lined the edges with bricks, filled the middle with charcoal and gathered banana leaves to cover the top. Craig’s house was right on the beach, so we prepared the slaughter area closer to the water. We gathered small, dry branches for the fire to boil water. Dipping Bernice in boiling water would make it easier to scrape off her hair. Finally we tied a rope to a nearby tree where we would hang Bernice to facilitate her gutting.
By evening everything was ready and we went to bed early. We had a long day ahead of us since Bernice could take up to 12 hours to cook. We had to get our killing done early.
We woke up at 3am and headed to the slaughter area. The water would take a long time to boil so we started the fire immediately. Lisa is a vegetarian and shied away from sharing in the slaughter. She was in charge of the fire. We reviewed our plan. Elizabeth and Craig would hold down Bernice. Tim, the strongest, would "render her insensible" with the ax. Matt would cut her throat. And I, the aspiring movie director, would direct the process and record it with my camera.
Tim said a short prayer for Bernice and we observed a moment of silence. Elizabeth and Craig got into position. Tim held up the ax. We held our breaths in anticipation. Matt suddenly interrupted: “Wait! Stop! Wait! What if something goes wrong? Something we don’t expect is going to happen and we need to be ready for it.” We all exhaled deeply, releasing some of the tension.
We discussed possible difficulties. In spite of extensive sharpening efforts, our knives and machete were still not terribly sharp. But we had no other options. Craig was concerned about the Cameroonian fishermen who arrive early each morning. He thought the sight of bloody Americans and a dead pig might disturb them. But we had several large buckets for catching the blood and an ocean full of water for washing.
It was around 4am and time to start. Everyone got back into position. Tim turned to me and asked, “How hard do you want me to hit her?” I told him to hit her as hard as he could. Tim wasn’t sure and pressed, “I might break her skull.” I reassured him, “Break her skull then, but hit her as hard as you can.” I really wanted her to be knocked out quickly to make the slaughter as humane as possible. We were ready to go.
Tim slammed the ax into Bernice’s head and it made a horrific cracking noise. Elizabeth and Craig started to let go, saying “she’s dead.” I wasn’t sure and countered “No, I don’t think so. Keep holding her down.” Bernice was definitely knocked out. Matt stabbed the knife into her neck and Bernice woke up with a terrifying squeal. He tried to cut across her neck, but the knife’s handle snapped off. Matt yelled out over Bernice’s shrieks: “We need help! We need help! The knife broke! We need help!” Tim grabbed the machete and swung at her neck, but the machete bounced off. Bernice continued wailing. Tim snatched up the other knife and sliced through her neck. Blood squirted out in every direction. Finally, we heard the gurgling noise of Bernice choking on her own blood and we knew she was dead.
It was all very Lord of the Flies. It was pitch black and very difficult to see. We worked by the light of a small petrol lantern. The whole thing only took about 30 seconds, but the adrenaline rush seemed to last forever.
Once Bernice was dead, we took turns scraping off her hair with the broken knife and the one good knife we had left. Bernice was not like American pigs. She was a wild bush pig and had long, thick hair. Although the de-hairing was not the most dramatic part of the ordeal, it was the most difficult. Elizabeth and I were on scraping duty as the sun came up and Craig’s fishermen friends began to arrive. We had done a pretty good job cleaning up the gore and the fishermen were not upset.
Adolph, Craig’s Cameroonian colleague, came over around 7am. Most of Bernice’s hair was gone, but we were struggling with a few tough spots. Adolph proposed we shave off the little hair left with a razor. It did the trick and we felt pretty stupid for not thinking of that ourselves. Adolph also helped us with the gutting. Matt and I held her front and hind legs spread apart while Adolph expertly extracted her entrails. Bernice still smelled like a dead carcass, but she was beginning to look like meat.
Lisa had disappeared during the gutting. When we brought Bernice back up to the house for her final cleaning and marinating, we found Lisa waiting for us with hot fresh chocolate chip pancakes. The rest of us hadn’t thought much about eating for quite some time, but after five hours of blood, sweat and tears we were famished and most appreciative of Lisa’s thoughtfulness.
After stuffing myself with pancakes, I went back to work on Bernice. I tried to replicate what I’d seen my mother do. I stabbed into Bernice’s flesh and stuffed garlic and lemon juice into the holes. I rubbed her down with more of the same and sprinkled her with salt, pepper, cumin and oregano. Finally I wrapped her tightly between two metal grates.
Meanwhile, Craig and Matt had gotten the charcoal started. Our pit oven was hot and ready. The guys carefully lowered Bernice into the ground and everyone helped cover her up with banana leaves. According to my cousin’s instructions, we were not to even peek inside for at least four hours. We were all ready for a break by then anyway.
Most of us headed straight for the ocean. Craig didn’t have running water and his well was low. We needed to save the well water for drinking, so the ocean was the place to bathe. Having never before scrubbed myself clean of pig gore in the ocean, I was surprised to find that it’s quite difficult to get up a good lather in salt water. But we were all determined to get clean and managed with a little effort.
After cleaning up, we took turns napping in Craig’s hammock. Periodically someone would ask me: “Michele, can we peek yet? Can we, please?” But I was determined to follow my cousin’s instructions. I had even set a timer for four hours. Soon delicious smells began seeping through the banana leaves. Four hours rolled around and it had been so built up by then, that we counted down the last 10 seconds.
Bernice did not disappoint. She looked magnificent and smelled divine. It was starting to feel like Christmas. We cautiously flipped her over and covered her up with more banana leaves. We put on Bing Crosby and Craig got out the tiny Christmas tree his mother had sent in a care package. With the help of some wine from Equatorial Guinea the next few hours passed quickly. As soon as we got Bernice out of the pit and onto the table, we tore into her perfectly crispy skin and devoured her tender, succulent, flavorful flesh. Everyone raved – the best pork ever, the best meat ever, the best meal ever, the best Christmas ever!